Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Fall Leaf Embroidery

I did this little project over the weekend.  The fall colors around here inspired me to pick up the needle and try this little assissi embroidery project.
 My main point was just to practice some of the summer school stitches in something more like a regular project rather than just a sampler. It is good to see them with other stitches too.
 If I have counted correctly, I used 8/12 of the stitches. Not bad! Using them all really wasn't the main point, but just to use some of them. You can see in my close-ups that there are lots of nice textures to these stitches. It really does make it more interesting to look at.
I used plant-dyed wool fibers throughout the whole project. The colors are just so nice and earthy. It was a pleasure to work with them.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Summer Stitch School Week 12: Cross Stitch

Welcome to the final week of Summer Stitch School!  This week's stitch isn't so exotic.  I picked the humble cross stitch.  Not many stitches manage to have a full industry based around it, but the cross stitch has managed this, and it's probably what you think of when you hear "cross stitch".  Today's goal is to show you that it much more than that!  It is in fact quite a versatile stitch as you will see.

The cross stitch
Cross stitch is very straightforward, simply make two straight stitches that cross.
That's all there is to it.

Variations
Now you know cross stitch can be both a filling and a line stitch, so I am not taking time to show a bunch of x's lined up.  Instead the goal is to show you that there are many ways to use this simple stitch to create interest and texture.
Variation 1
The basic stitch. Traditionally, the lower and upper stitches are made in the same direction. Of course, one is free to turn that upside down and experiment with that. I will leave that to you though and focus on shapes and uses instead.

Variation 2
Stitch a row on top of another. Adds a lot of interest, especially when you use two floss colors. Also shown are some single cross stitches with variations on the layering.

Variation 3
Change the height and width of your stitches. Also, a line of cross stitches are quite pretty when spaced out a little.

Variation 4
The cross stitch can be wrapped, threaded and whipped like many other stitches. In the upper example I have threaded the x's in alternating directions as shown in the photos.

 Also you can whip the x's. Just bring the needle under each x from the same direction.
Variation 5
The legs of the x don't need to be the same at all. Vary the angle or vary the length. Line up two rows of x's with varied angles for an interesting pattern.

Variation 6
Cross stitch is a great stitch to use when couching. Use it to couch down yarns, ribbons or perhaps an odd material such as a rolled up candy wrapper.

Variation 7
Cross stitch can be used to stitch on beads. In this example I have widened the x so that it shows a bit under the bead. The x can be small so that it is not seen too.

Variation 8
Turn the x on it's side and make an upright cross stitch.

Variation 9
More layering of stitches.  This time a regular cross stitch on top of an upright cross stitch.

Variation 10
Size is another important way to vary the x's. When making a row of x's, try making some larger. Adds interest!

I hope this has been an interesting lesson!  I've certainly done my share of "normal" cross stitch, so this way fun to see the stitch in a new way.  This is the last lesson, but I will make a summary post!

Friday, August 26, 2011

Summer Stitch School Week 11: Feather Stitch

We've made it to week 11 of The Floss Box summer stitch school. Time flies when you are having fun, and stitching is lots of fun! This week I chose a good, classic stitch: the feather stitch. It's easy to make and very pretty and versatile. Traditionally, it's a line stitch, but pretty much all line stitches can be made into fill-in stitches.

The Feather Stitch
This stitch has a side to side pattern as shown the pictures. With your needle grab a bit of fabric to the right and in the middle where the needle was brought up. Make sure the thread is wrapped under the needle. For reference, I call the individual units "loops".
After you pull the needle through, simply make a similar loop to the right of the first.
 Repeat the pattern down to make your line of stitches.
 At the end of the line just make a small straight stitch at the end. You can of course, make the straight stitch longer or shorter as you like.
Variations


Variations 1 and 2
The first variation is the standard feather stitch. Variations marked 2 are different ways to form the right and left loops. They can be made so the loops follow a straight line down the middle, or formed with very wide, shallow loops. The right and left sides can be assymetrical too for an interesting effect. There are many, many more ways to line up the loops, these shown are but a few of them.

Variation 3
This shows two lines of feather stitches with one on top of the other. This layering gives a whole lot of texture to the stitch.

Variation 4
You can vary the number of side to side loops. This shows two loops in each direction. You can do many more or make them with varying number of side to side loops.

Variation 5
The feather stitch can be easily wrapped, threaded or whipped. Here I have threaded the feather stitches with a different thread through the loops.

Variation 6
An example of how you could add beads to the feather stitch.

Varation 7
By making rows of stitches, you can make the feather stitch into a filling stitch. In this example the stitches are lined up so they share holes. An interesting wave pattern emerges when the stitches are lined up like this.

I hope you enjoyed this week's lesson. Next week will be the final lesson. I hope these have helped a few of you out there to be inspired to pick up your needle and try something new!

Friday, August 19, 2011

Summer Stitch School Week 10: Needle weaving

Hi and welcome to another summer stitch school adventure. This week I've selected needle weaving.  It's a little different from the others because it's more like a technique than a single stitch, but the stitches are just variations on the idea of weaving the needle in and out of bars. Needle weaving is very nice for adding textures and interesting details to your projects, so it's definitely worth a little time to learn it.


The needle weave stitch
The basic idea is the same for regular weaving on a loom. First, make a series of vertical straight stitches.
Then with your needle weave in and out of the straight stitches. In this example, the needle is brought down at the end of the row of stitches, and up again for the next row.
 
Variations
 There many ways to use needle weaving to create different effects and types of stitches. The sampler shows a few of these.
1. This is the basic needle weaving stitch in a few different forms. As shown above you can end each row of weaving by bringing the needle to the back of the fabric or you can just wrap the thread around the last bar and start the next row. Note that the more firmly you pull on the thread while weaving, the more edges will bow inward.

Also note the difference that making the straight stitches farther apart makes. This is especially apparent in the irregular shape example.

2. This type of needle weaving is called needle woven bars. This stitch is formed by first making two straight stitches, and then weaving back and forth around them. The sampler shows both a variation with parallel straight stitches and one with nonparallel straight stitches.

3. This variation is known as woven spiders wheel. To form this stitch, you make an odd number of straight stitches radiating out and weave in and out of them.  You can fill the radiating bars completely or leave the spokes showing.
4. This type of needle weaving produces a raised effect. To form this stitch, bring the needle up and down just slightly over to the right of where the needle was brought up. Then with a scrap of thread pull the loop firmly.
 Bring the needle up again at the base of the loop and begin needle weaving. You will have to hold onto the scrap thread while you work up the loop. Gently push the weaving down a little as you go along. Be sure to pull firmly after each turn, but not so firmly that the weaving is pulled upwards.
When you reach the top of the loop, remove the scrap of thread and bring your needle down to the back of the fabric. You can bring the needle straight back so the woven section lies flat, or you can twist it a bit or let it bow over a bit above the fabric.

5. This stitch is called a needle-woven picot. To form this stitch, loop the  thread around a pin. The placement of the pin will determine how long the stitch is.
  
Then bring the needle up again to the right of the loop and pull it behind the pin. Then begin the needle weaving. Like the previous stitch, pull firmly, but not too much after each turn. At the bottom, bring the needle to the back.
 That concludes another week of summer stitch school. I hope you enjoyed seeing this stitch.Grab a needle and give it a try. It really does help to play around a bit and try the stitches - plus it's lots of fun!!




Friday, August 12, 2011

Summer Stitch School Week 9: Queen Stitch

Welcome to another week of summer stitch school! This week's stitch is the queen stitch also known as the renaissance stitch. The queen stitch isn't one of the more common stitches, but there is nothing hard about it, and it has a nice shape that can be used in a variety of ways. 

The queen stitch
The stitch is composed of a series of straight stitches. First make a vertical straight stitch, then a small horizontal stitch in the middle of the first stitch.
Next, make another vertical straight stitch in the same holes as the first.  Then make a  small, horizontal anchoring stitch to the left.
Repeat on the other side.
Now the stitch is complete!

Variations on the queen stitch
There are of course, a whole wide range of variations for the queen stitch.  Here is shown just a few of them.
1. An example of the standard stitch formed.
2. Addition of more color is just one idea. There are many possibilities for arranging the individual stitches. Here they are lined up on their sides.
3. The queen stitch can be a filling stitch also. If you don't want a zig-zag edge, try making some half stitches to fill in the gaps.
4. Different examples of aligning the queen stitch. You can make your stitches wider or narrower by changing the width of the center straight stitch. For a wider stitch, just make the middle straight stitch wider.
5. This is an example with 3 colors. Each of the colors has its own needle.  Handling all those needles can be a challenge a serious challenge in itself!
6. The queen stitch is well-suited to beading. In this example, a bead is added to the middle straight stitch.
7. In this example a thread is whipped around the middle straight stitch. There are many other possibilities for wrapping and threading the stitches.
8. Another possible alignment of stitches. Lining up two rows can make an interesting line of stitches.






I hope you enjoyed this week's stitch. Grab some thread and fabric. It really is fun to experiment a bit!

Friday, July 29, 2011

Summer Stitch School Week 7: Sheaf Stitch

This week's stitch is the sheaf stitch. This is a great, little, two-step stitch that you might enjoy working into your embroidery. It's sure fun to make, so grab your needles and some thread and give it a try!

The stitch
It's not hard at all. First make 3 vertical straight stitches.

Next bring up your needle somewhere under the first straight stitch. Just push that first stitch over to the right slightly with your finger to make place for the needle. Now wrap the three stitches by bringing the thread over all them and then sliding the needle under them.

Then bring the needle down to the right of the little bundle.

There is the finished stitch!

Variations
 There are quite a few little variations you can try with this stitch. Of course, these are just to get you thinking, there are many, many more to try too!
 1. This is a small row of "normal" stitches.
2. Add some contrast by wrapping the straight stitches with a different color thread.
3. There is nothing that says you must use 3 straight stitches. This example has 2, 3, and 4 straight stitches.
4. You can also vary the number of times you wrap the straight stitches. Here 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 wraps are shown in the example.
5. This example shows both alternating horizontal and vertical straight stitches with the straight stitches a bit wider apart.
6. You can extend the wrap if you want too. Instead of pushing the first straight stitch over a little, just bring the needle up just on the side of the straight stitch. Wrap under, and bring the needle down in line with the final straight stitch.
7. The stitches can be line up top to bottom. This might make an interesting border or maybe a great fill-in.
8. This shows various irregular sheaf stitches. In some the straight stitches are place at varying distances from one another. Also the length of the individual straight stitches can be varied.
9. Add a bead to the wrap stitch.  The bead is passed through two times - once before wrapping under the straight stitches, and again after.


Week 7 is now complete, but there is still time to join in!!

Friday, July 22, 2011

Summer Stitch School Week 6: Spider Web Stitch

Welcome to week 6 of summer stitch school here at The Floss Box - half way through now. This week stitch is a fun one: spider web stitch. It can add a lot of nice texture too. It can be stitched both as a detail-type stitch or used to fill an area.  The stitch is made in two steps.  First a set of spokes are bars is made, followed by another length of thread which wraps around each of the spokes or bars.


The stitch
First make spokes radiating outward from a central point. You can either make straight stitches from the center or make stitches that go over the whole diameter of the area to be stitched. If you are making a 5 point stitch, then you can make one fly stitch and two spokes.


Next bring the needle up close to the center. Slide the needle under the first spoke and then over and under it again. You can slide the needle under the next spoke in the same movement.
Continue until the spokes are filled.


Bring the needle down near a spoke, so that the whole stitched area is even.



Variation 1 and 2
This shows the basic stitch. You can change colors as you go along, or perhaps use threads of different thickness for the spokes and wrapping stitch. Also, you can make how many spokes you like, even or odd.

Variation 3
You don't have to fill up all the spikes. It can be quite effective with the spokes partially filled.

Variation 4
The spider web stitch can be used to fill different kinds of irregular areas too. First make your spokes or bars. Then wrap the threads around them as before. You can bring the thread down at the end of the row, then up again in position for the next row.


These are just a few ides to get you started. This really is a great stitch, so pick up your needle and give it a try!